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https://doi.org/10.5194/os-2017-77
© Author(s) 2017. This work is distributed under the Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 License. 
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Research article
19 Oct 2017
1Faculty of Science, Engineering, and Technology, Swinburne University of Technology, Hawthorn, Victoria 3122 Australia
2Department of Infrastructure Engineering | Melbourne School of Engineering, The University of Melbourne, Victoria 3010 Australia
3MetOcean Research Ltd, New Plymouth, 4310 New Zealand
Received: 20 Sep 2017 – Accepted for review: 12 Oct 2017 – Discussion started: 19 Oct 2017
Abstract.
Citation: Nose, T., Babanin, A., and Ewans, K.: In situ observations of infragravity wave directionality at nearshore coastal sites, Ocean Sci. Discuss., https://doi.org/10.5194/os-2017-77, 2017.
2Department of Infrastructure Engineering | Melbourne School of Engineering, The University of Melbourne, Victoria 3010 Australia
3MetOcean Research Ltd, New Plymouth, 4310 New Zealand
Infragravity wavesis a term used to collectively describe surface gravity waves with periods arbitrarily between 30 and 300 s. In situ observations of infragravity waves at nearshore sites are scarce, and the directionality of the wave field has not received much attention in the past. This paper details a systematic directional analysis of experimental infragravity wave data. Through applying conventional and new directional analysis methods, qualitative and some quantitative characteristics of infragravity wave directions have been resolved. The analysis has found that infragravity waves have a bimodal directional structure with the dominant energy distributed in the propagation sector incident to the coast. It has also been demonstrated that mean infragravity wave directions can be derived, and there is evidence that the directional spreading of infragravity waves is correlated to their wind-generated wave counterparts. Using a numerical model, the qualitative findings were verified; however, contrary to the observations, the dominant direction of the modelled infragravity waves are in the propagation sector outward from the coast. The results provide improved insights into the directionality of infragravity waves, but the disparity between the dominant directions in the model and observations remains to be resolved.
Citation: Nose, T., Babanin, A., and Ewans, K.: In situ observations of infragravity wave directionality at nearshore coastal sites, Ocean Sci. Discuss., https://doi.org/10.5194/os-2017-77, 2017.
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