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Ocean Science An interactive open-access journal of the European Geosciences Union
https://doi.org/10.5194/os-2017-16
© Author(s) 2017. This work is distributed under
the Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 License.
Research article
04 May 2017
Review status
This discussion paper is a preprint. A revision of this manuscript was accepted for the journal Ocean Science (OS) and is expected to appear here in due course.
Observation on dominance of swells over wind-seas in the coastal waters of Gulf of Mannar, India
M. M. Amrutha and V. Sanil Kumar Ocean Engineering Division, CSIR-National Institute of Oceanography, Dona Paula, Goa 403 004 India
Abstract. In coastal gulfs generally, predominance of wind-seas are expected. Waves measured at a location having a water depth of 15 m in the nearshore waters of Gulf of Mannar during one year period (1 May 2015 to 30 April 2016) is used to examine the predominance of wind-seas and swells through spectral characterization. The study shows that even though the location is in a gulf, the annual average value (~ 0.84 m) of the significant wave height at this area is comparable to that along the coastal waters of the Indian subcontinent, but the annual maximum value (~ 1.7 m) recorded is much less than that (3 to 5 m) observed in those regions. Also, large seasonal variations are not observed in the wave height. The waves of the study region are under the control of sea-breeze with the maximum in the late evening hours and the minimum in the early morning hours. 53 % of the surface height variance in the study area is a result of southeast and south swells and the remaining are the east and southeast wind-seas.

Citation: Amrutha, M. M. and Sanil Kumar, V.: Observation on dominance of swells over wind-seas in the coastal waters of Gulf of Mannar, India, Ocean Sci. Discuss., https://doi.org/10.5194/os-2017-16, in review, 2017.
M. M. Amrutha and V. Sanil Kumar
M. M. Amrutha and V. Sanil Kumar
M. M. Amrutha and V. Sanil Kumar

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Waves measured at 15 m in the nearshore waters of Gulf of Mannar during one year period is used to examine the predominance of wind-seas and swells through spectral characterization. The waves of the study region are under the control of sea-breeze with the maximum in the late evening hours and the minimum in the early morning hours. 53% of the surface height variance in the study area is a result of southeast and south swells and the remaining are the east and and southeast wind-seas.
Waves measured at 15 m in the nearshore waters of Gulf of Mannar during one year period is used...
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